Inadequate mixing is the most common reason for
poor results. Read complete instructions before beginning project.
Important application facts to know before using
FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat
Note: If the contents in either
container appear thick or solid, place containers in hot tap water until
contents return to a normal, liquid state. Allow to cool to room
temperature before mixing. Glaze Coat is NOT RECOMMENDED for floors
because it is not designed for high impact applications and does not
contain abrasion-resistant properties. Coating over Glaze Coat with a
urethane-based product such as FAMOWOOD Dura-Tuff is recommended.
- Be sure to bring Glaze Coat up to room
temperature prior to using. Bubbles are more likely to occur when
product and/or room is cold (under 70°F).
- Wear lightweight safety gloves and protective
- Follow measuring and mixing instructions
carefully. Product will not cure properly and will be soft or sticky
if directions are not followed precisely.
- Most applications require only one coat for a
deep, beautiful finish. However, multiple coats can be applied for
obtaining a deeper finish. Wipe surface with alcohol or acetone
- To coat over polyurethane or acrylic finishes,
lightly sand the surface and wipe with acetone or alcohol before
using Glaze Coat.
- Glaze Coat is recommended for INDOOR use only.
- If the surface has been treated with any
solvent-based liquids such as varnish or stain, test a separate area
first to ensure compatibility with Glaze Coat.
- For beginners, it is recommended that you become
familiar with Glaze Coat by doing a small project first.
- Keep dust away for approximately eight hours
after coating. This can be accomplished by having a dust cover ready
to use after pour to prevent debris from falling on project.
Use in well ventilated area. Avoid breathing vapors.
- Three or more unwaxed paper or plastic cups or
buckets with clearly marked volume measurements and clean, smooth
walls and bottom
- Straight edge stir sticks or paint paddles
- Plastic spreader or squeegee
- Disposable brush for coating edges
- Flat, clean dust cover
- Waxed paper, newspaper, or plastic drop cloth
- Latex, vinyl, or chemical-resistant neoprene
- Protective clothing recommended (in case of
- Masking tape
- Carpenter's level
*Eye protection strongly recommended
Gallon (128 oz.)
*based on 1/16" thickness
Surface must be level, dry and free from oil, dust and wax. To catch
drips, cover surrounding area with waxed paper, newspaper or drop cloth.
Allow drips to flow freely off the sides by elevating area to be coated.
For porous surfaces, a thin sealer coat is
recommended. Certain woods with open grains such as oak and walnut will
allow air to escape causing bubbles. Follow these steps for porous
fabrics or papers as well. These applications require a thin coat of
Glaze Coat prior to the full flood coating. Mix about ¼ the amount
normally used for a full flood coat and spread it thinly over entire
surface. This will seal air passages. Allow to cure approximately
4-5 hours at 70°F.
Before pouring, protect the sides and edges of the
surface area of item being coated with several layers of masking tape.
After curing, remove the tape and any drips along with it. Otherwise,
drips may be scraped with a putty knife about 30-40 minutes after
pouring, or they may be sanded after completely curing.
Measure: Step 1.
Pour equal parts each of resin and hardener into
separate clean, unwaxed disposable paper or plastic cups or tubs. Mix
MUST be a one-to-one ratio (by volume), meaning equal parts resin and
hardener. If possible, use a calibrated container.
Mix: Step 2.
Pour the carefully measured Resin (Side A) into the
container with measured Hardener (Side B) and thoroughly mix for two
minutes. Mix with a stir stick using vigorous, steady revolutions while
trying to minimize excess air bubbles into the mixture. Some air bubbles
occur naturally and can be removed after the pour. It is very important
to scrape all sides and the bottom of the container with your stirring
stick as you mix.
Mix: Step 3.
Pour the Resin and Hardener mix into a clean mixing
container and thoroughly mix for an additional two minutes.
1st Cup - Hardener into Resin
2nd Cup - Hardener/Resin mixture into new
When the resin and hardener are first
poured together, the initial mixture appears hazy. Stir until
the mixture is completely clear and no sign of haziness remains.
- Do not use a power-driven mixing device under
any circumstances, to avoid excessive bubbling.
- To avoid an improperly blended product, do not
mix with a shaking motion.
- Mix in small batches. Inexperienced users should
not mix more than one quart batches. Experienced users should not
mix in more than one gallon batches at a time.
- The mixture of resin and hardener produces heat.
The larger the batch, the more heat is generated in a relatively
short time. This severely restricts your work time.
- Test small areas before use.
If you have any questions regarding application,
please call 800-767-4667 Monday through Friday 7:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
Pour Glaze Coat IMMEDIATELY onto the center of the surface to be
covered. Do not allow it to "sit" as with some other epoxies. You only
have about 20-25 minutes working time before product begins to harden.
Note: If temperature is above 70°F,
working time decreases. Spread the mixture over the area with a plastic
spreader, plastic squeegee, or brush. If coating a large surface such as
tables, bar tops, etc., a notched squeegee or trowel works well (see
Large Area Applications).
Pour mixture onto surface and spread evenly using a
combing action in one direction over entire surface. Do not persist in
re-spreading the mixture as it sets up, otherwise it will not self-level
during the curing action.
Do not pour more than 1/8" thick in an application.
Mix only as much as you can pour and spread at one time.
At initial pour, air bubbles created during the mixing process will
usually rise to the surface by themselves and disappear. However,
because Glaze Coat is very thick, it is usually necessary to help this
process along immediately after pouring. Surface bubbles MUST be removed
when surface is still wet, not once surface begins the curing process or
else bubbles will turn into dimples once fully cured. Blow gently on the
surface to force bubbles up and away. For larger areas, use a small,
handheld propane torch. Keep flame 6 to 8 inches above surface. Move
torch over freshly poured Glaze Coat several times until surface is
bubble free. Be sure to use a waving action so the surface is only
slightly warmed, allowing remaining air bubbles to disappear.
Do not hold flame in one area.
To achieve best results, apply at temperatures between 70°F and 80°F.
Both Glaze Coat and the item to be coated should be approximately the
NOTE: These curing times are to be used
as guidelines only. Warmer temperatures will yield faster cure
|Allow fresh pours to cure in a warm room (at least
70°F). Place a cover at least 3" above coated surface area to protect
from dust particles when curing.
Use acetone or alcohol for tool and work area
cleanup. Glaze Coat can only be cleaned while it is still in a liquid
state. After it has cured, paint remover, heat gun, or sanding is
CAUTION: Always use plenty of soap and water to wash skin.
Table tops, bar tops & large items:
For best results, the following steps must be taken before applying
Glaze Coat to large surface areas.
- It is recommended to have a helper to speed up
the mixing and application process for large areas.
- If the surface has previously been used, waxes
or acids from citrus could be present, it is recommended to strip
the finish to bare wood. After Glaze Coat has been applied, these
foreign substances can migrate to the surface. This would cause the
bond to break down and rippling to occur.
- Large surface area applications require mixing
in large batches and should only be applied by a professional who
has more in-depth knowledge and prior experience. Don't mix more
than one gallon at a time.
- As stated before, surface preparation is
important. Please read Surface Preparation prior to beginning your
project. After the sealer coat has been applied and has had at least
4-5 hours to set up, you can apply subsequent layers of Glaze Coat.
The major difference between small and large applications is knowing
how much to cover in one pouring. Determine how much you are going
to mix at one time and how large an area it will cover. Remember;
one quart covers about 9 square feet, 1/16" thick. Unless highly
experienced with Glaze Coat, do not attempt to mix more than one
gallon at a time. Mix, pour and spread. Immediately start a new
batch. Pour the next section, allowing the sections to flow into
each other. Do not put layers on top of each other while they are
still wet. This will produce uneven curing of the layers and cause
ripples or "alligatoring" on the surface.
- Reference sections above regarding surface
bubbles, curing, and cleanup.
Use acetone to clean up any unwanted wet liquid resin on project and
tools. After FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat has cured, epoxy stripper, sanding
or scraping are the only ways it can be removed. (Caution: Both side
A and B are skin irritants and should be handled carefully. Always
use plenty of soap and water to cleanse skin.)
- Heat resistance:
Heat resistance is approximately 120°F once fully cured. Coaster or
hot pads MUST be used when placing hot objects on Glaze Coated
surfaces. Hot objects may leave impressions on a FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat
surface. The Glaze Coat is tough, yet flexible to avoid shattering
on impact. Impressions usually disappear in a few hours at normal
72°-75°F room temperatures. The warmer the environment, the quicker
impressions appear and disappear.
Once FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat is fully cured, any acceptable furniture
wax or polish may be applied to restore fresh, new luster and help
hide minor scratches. If surface is marred with deep scratches,
cigarette burns, etc.; lightly sand entire surface, wipe clean with
dry cloth, and recoat with spreader. Glaze Coat should not be used
on hot surfaces such as ashtrays or cookware.
- Surface Care:
Once Glaze Coat is thoroughly cured, any wax or polish may be
applied to restore fresh, new luster and help hide minor blemishes.
Test small area. If surface is marred (deep scratches, cigarette
burns, etc.), lightly sand entire surface ensuring all discoloration
is removed. Wipe clean with a dry cloth or cloth with a small amount
of alcohol or acetone. Do not use a tack cloth, as it will leave a
film. After surface is ready, re-coat with Glaze Coat. Glaze Coat is
recommended for interior use only and should not be used on hot
surfaces such as ash trays or cookware. Do not use bleach to clean
- Heat Resistance:
A surface temperature of 120°F can be applied without any problems.
Otherwise, distortion may occur. Always use a coaster or hot pad on
surfaces with Glaze Coat. Never use Glaze Coat to line ashtrays or
- Glaze Coat is pliable.
It may dent if something is left on it for an extended period. Once
the item is removed, the dent will gradually disappear.
- Product Storage:
Glaze Coat should not be allowed to freeze. Be sure to bring Glaze
Coat up to room temperature prior to using. Shelf life is about one
- Embedding Items:
Pictures, fabric, coins, shells... almost anything can be encased in
Glaze Coat. You can either attach the item with a good grade white
glue, making certain the entire surface is covered to ensure it will
not try to float. You can also embed on the initial sealer coat.
While the surface is still tacky, position the item and push it into
place, making sure it is not going to move. After it has cured, a
second coat can be applied to smooth the entire surface. Another
method for photographs is to first laminate the photograph before
attaching to surface.
- Please Note: When embedding items that
are important to you, make a copy and use that. Very old pictures or
newspaper articles can be damaged. Not recommended for applications
- Creating a Satin Finish:
To remove some of the gloss from your surface area after the Glaze
Coat has completely cured, lightly sand the surface with 0000 steel
wool or #600 sandpaper. Clean the surface and then apply a mixture
of oil (linseed, crude, or polishing) and a carnauba-based wax.
Allow to dry, rub clean, and then buff again with a carnauba-based
To request a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) please
send an email to
||Eclectic Products, Inc.
101 Dixie Mae Drive
Pineville LA 71360-3993
|Answers to FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat Question
|What is FAMOWOOD
Glaze Coat High Build Epoxy Coating?
|FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat is superior, ultra clear,
two-part, 1:1, high build epoxy coating.
|What is FAMOWOOD
Glaze Coat High Build Epoxy Coating used on?
|FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat may be used on a variety of
surfaces; smooth or rough surfaces; stained or painted:
- Sea Shells & Dried Flowers
- Pine Cones
- Oil Paintings
- Bread Dough
- Unfired Clay
- Slab Wood
|Is FAMOWOOD Glaze
Coat heat resistant?
|Heat resistance is approximately 120°F once fully
cured. Coaster or hot pads MUST be used when placing hot objects on
Glaze Coated surfaces. Hot objects may leave impressions on a FAMOWOOD
Glaze Coat surface. The Glaze Coat is tough, yet flexible to avoid
shattering on impact. Impressions usually disappear in a few hours at
normal 72°-75°F room temperatures. The warmer the environment, the
quicker impressions appear and disappear.